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Hello guys, this is EL.
Today, I will be reviewing Butterick pattern 6292 to create the white coat that I’m wearing. Li and I decided to create coats with gold buttons using Butterick patterns. Li used Butterick 6497 and I used 6292.
This coat was very challenging for me and took forever to sew! Li was finished a 1 ½ week before me. I’ve never…ever… been so ready to finish a garment as I was with this coat! The level of aggravation and frustration I experienced while sewing this coat for almost 3 weeks was unmeasurable. But I couldn’t just walk away from the project and put it aside for a later time. I had to finish it. As far as this coat was concerned, if I stopped, I was done. Forever! No return.
Initially, I cut a 12 at the button, then graded the top to a size 14. Thank you Jesus, I made a muslim, because I was looking like a ghost wearing a tent! No shape or any signs of a silhouette. I’m all about a feminine silhouette, so to see it shapeless on me was a big no, no! So, I just went with a size 12.
I wanted to create a feminine silhouette while maintaining a structured element. In my eagerness, I used a heavyweight interface thinking because of the bulk it needed heavier. Using it did give me structure, a little too much and it canceled out the pliability and movement of the garment. When I was about 4 steps away from completion, in a spur-of-the-moment decision, I decided to cut out the hand sewn interfacing. I didn’t unstitch it because I already top stitched and had added an extra row of top stitching and ummm….I refused to unstitch all that hard work! I literally cutted around the top stitches and ironed in the open areas with fusible interfacing. Lesson learned, use a medium-weight interfacing.
This was my first time lining anything. My first cape, that I made was unlined. It’s sooo pretty on the outside, but inside…whoa…it looks a mess! Actually, I have a friend who teases me about how the inside of my cape looks. At the time, I didn’t know anything about lining or binding seams. I now since have come to realize their necessity.
Well, my lining was not wide enough to fit within my shell. I shorten the shell 1 inch, thinking that that would help. It did not. After about 2 days, yea 2 days, of failed attempts, I decided to unstitch a middle seam and create a triangular piece and insert it there. That worked and gave me the width I needed to attach it properly. Then, my hem kept puckering. I thought it was my slip stitching technique, so I watched a gazillion videos. Nope. It wasn’t me. Li had the same problem while constructing her coat. She resolved it by shortening her hem 2 inches. Doing the same thing resolved my problem too. Except, I shortened it by 1 inch. Like I said, this was my first time doing a full lining of a garment and for future projects, for my sake and Li’s, we will cut the lining the same size as the shell pieces versus shortening it as the instructions suggest. That way we will have more fabric to work with just in case something like this occurs again.
So both of us end up shortening our coats by 2 inches which worked out in our favor because it ended up at the perfect length.
While sewing the buttonholes, my sewing machine went cuckoo. Simple buttonholes that should have only taken 10 to 15 minutes to sew, took like 2 hours, thanks to my machine deciding to have jams sessions! Literally!
This is one of the few times I’ve fabric shop with a project in mind. I saw this white sweatshirt fabric and in my head thought it looked suitable for a wool coat and so did the two people behind the counter. In retrospect, none of us knew what we were talking about! This coat gets wrinkled easily and I would highly suggest not using this type of fabric for sewing a coat. Li chose a more appropriate coating fabric which is the navy blue wool that you see her wearing.
Since we purchase our fabric from a local store, here are some selection of fabrics that you can purchase from online that would be suitable.
Thus far, I know I’ve only listed the cons and negatives of construction, now let me talk about the positives. Pros of construction included using a walker foot for the first time. This foot was amazing! The bulk of the fabric was unnoticeable while using the walker foot. Li did not use one and encounter problems due to its bulk. So we’ve decided to purchase another walking foot. Here is a link for those of you who want to purchase one too! Once, again, highly recommend! Also to assist with the bulkiness of the garment, I decided to use a denim needle and that worked well.
Another element I like about the construction is my topstitching! I really do love the extra row of topstitching that I added on the front panels and back. When I had the heavier interfacing and structured, it was more pronounced and noticeable.
Overall, however, I am dissatisfied with my coat. I wish I would have selected a different fabric, used a medium-weight interfacing to begin with, and bigger buttons. I love the way Li’s coat turned out and wish I choose something similar to hers. But as weird as it sounds I’m still excited to sew another coat.
P.S. – you are loved!